Folder for sewing-machines.



HfL. WILLIS. FOLDER FOB SEVHNG MACHINES. APPLICATION FILED JULY 11.1916.

Patnted June 4, 1918.

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H. L. WILLIS.

FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES. APPLICATION FILED JULY 11.1916- 268,% 1 5 4 Patentd June 4, 1918.

ISHEETS-SfiEET 4.

H. I WILLIS. FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES.

- APPLICATION FILED .IVULY II I916. L28,1 Patented June 4, 1918.

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FOLDER FOR SEWlNG MACHINES. APPLICATION FILED JULY 1|. i9l6.

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HARRY L. WILLIS, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

FOLDER FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 4, 1918.

Application filed July 11, 1916. Serial No. 108,617.

7 '0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HARRY L. -WILLIs, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Folders for Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in folders for sewing machines, and more particularly to a folder for guiding and folding the edges of a band and directing the same to a stitching mechanism, whereby it is stitched to a body fabric.

An object of the invent-ion is to provide a folder of the above character which is provided with means whereby a section of the folder may be shifted by the operator so as to direct the folded edge passing through the folder either into the path of the needle or at one side of the path of the needle at the will of the operator and without stopping the stitching mechanism.

A further object of the invention is to provide a folder for folding a band which is to be stitched to a body fabric with means so that the section of the folder guiding one edge of the band may be shifted so as to withdraw the edge of the band guided thereby from the path of the needle at the will of the operator, whereby one edge of the band may be withdrawn from the stitching operation so as to facilitate the finishing off of the band in a subsequent stitching operation.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be herinafter more fully desclosed.

In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention Figure 1 is a front view of a sewing machine having my improvements applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is an end view of the same;

Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical sectional view through a sewing machine having my improvements applied thereto, certain of the parts being in end elevation and certain of the parts being omitted for the sake of clearness;

Fig. 4: is a longitudinal sectional view through the folder and a portion of the sewing machine;

Fig. 5 is a top plan view of a portion of the sewing machine having my improved folder applied thereto;

Fig. 6 is a bottom plan view of the folder removed from the machine;

Fig. 7 is a longitudinal horizontal sectional view through the folder;

Fig. 8 is a longitudinal horizontal sectional view through a portion of the folder showing the needles and the folder adjusted for withdrawing the lower edge of a band from the path of the needles;

Fig. 9 is a bottom plan view of a portion of the folder;

Fig. 10 is an inverted perspective view of the movable section of the folder detached;

Fig. 11 is an inverted perspective view of the shifting lever and the connecting plate for operating the same;

Fig. 12 is a sectional view through the shiftable folder, showing the material therein;

Fig. 13 is a view of the delivery end of the folder;

Fig. 14 is a view showing a section of a garment with a band applied thereto by my improved folder;

Fig. 15 is an enlarged diagrammatic view showing the body fabric, the band and the needles, when the folder is positioned for guiding both edges of the band to the needle whigh penetrates the upper edge of the ban Fig. 16 is a similar view, but showing the lower edge of the band withdrawn from the path of the needle; and

Fig. 17 is a front view showing, more or less diagrammatically, a knee press lever for shifting the movable section of the folder.

In carrying out my invention, my im proved folder is preferably used with a two needle stitching mechanism where the needles are spaced so as to operate at the respective edges of a folded band. It will be obvious, "however, that a single-needle machine may be used instead of a two-needle machine. Cooperating with each needle beneath the work support is a looper, so that two independent lines of stitching are formed.

My invention is especially adapted for folding a band and stitching the Same to a body fabric, and I, therefore, use a guide for the body fabric which directs the edge there of so that it will be penetrated by the needle which passes through the folded edges of the band. I also use a band folder which is made in sections, the band folder operating to fold the band midway between its edges and to turn in each' edge of the band One of the sections of the folder is movable relative to the other section through devices which are under the control of the operator so that said movable section may be shifted at will without stopping the stitching mechanism. This shiftable section normally directs' the edge, which is turned or folded thereby, to the needle which passes through the upper in-turned edge of the band and the body fabric. When a point is reached where it is desired that the lower edge of the band shall be free from the line of stitching, the operator quickly shifts the position of the movable section which withdraws the edge turned in thereby from the path of the needle. WhileI have provided a construction wherein the movable section is for the lower edge of the band guide, it is obvious that it may also be used for the upper edge of the band guide.

Referring more in detail to the drawingsz- My improved folder for sewing machines is shown as applied to a sewing machine consisting of a work support 1, an overhanging arm' 2 in which a needle bar 3 re eiprocates, this needle bar being reciprocated by a needle l'ever 4 which is oscillated by an eccentric strap 5 coeperating with an eccentric on the main shaft. The needle bar 4, as herein shown, carries two needles 6 and 7. A looper 8 coeperates with the needle 6, while a looper 9 cooperates with the needle 7. These loopers are mounted on looper carriers 10 and 11, respectively, which are oscillated by a link 12 connected to the needle'lever extension 13. The looper carriers 10 and 11 are mounted on a looper support 14. The material is fed across the work support by a feed dog 15 which is carried by a feed bar 16. Cooperating with the feed dog is a presser foot 17 carried by a presser bar 18 mounted in the overhanging arm 2. These parts are all of the usual construction and further description thereof is not thought necessary.

Mounted on the work support is an edge guide 19 adapted to guide the edge of a body fabric, which is indicated in the drawings at F. This body fabric guide is provided with slots 20 through which screws 21 passfor adj'ustably securing the guide to the work support 1. Coeperating with the body guide is a ba'nd guide 22. This band guide is supported by a shank 23 having slots 24 through which screws 25 pass, these screws being threaded into the work support 1.

The band guide is made in two sections; the section 26 being fixed to the supporting shank 23, while the section 27 is shiftable or movable relative to the fixed section 26. The fixed section of the band guide projects' forwardly to a considerable extent in front of the needles and is formed of two guiding" walls 28 and 29. The guiding wall 29 terminates with an out-turned edge 30, while the inner guiding wall 28 extends a considerable distance beyond said outer guiding wall 29. The band, which is indi cated at B in the drawings, is guided along this inner guiding wall 28 by a wire loop 31 which is shaped to conform to the curvature of the guide wall 28. This guiding wire loop 31 is carried by a section 32 which telescopes the guide wall 28 and is held thereon by a set-screw 33. The wire loop extends helically about the curved inner wall and may be adjusted toward or from the reeeiving end 30 of the outer guide wall 29. Between the receiving and the delivering ends, the guide walls 28 and 29 are gradually turned back, as at 34, so as to turn the upper edge of the band, as indicated at b. A section of the outer guiding wall 29 pro jects beyond the delivery end ofthe folder, as at 35, so as to guide the inturned edge of the band well underneath the presser foot. The inner wall 28 also has a projecting part 36 around which this edge of the band is turned, and this aids in holding the edge of the band folded until it is well under"- neath the presser foot so that it will be properly directed to the needle for stitching. The band guide at the other side thereof where the strip is folded intermediate its edges is also formed with a projecting guide 37 and a supporting lip 38 which insures that the band will be folded evenly intermediate its edges and directed to the needle 7.

The movable section 27 of the band guide consists of a flat section 39 which is bent around at 4'0 and in-turned at 41. The inner and outer walls 28 and 29 of the flat. section extend between these portions 39 and 41', as clearly shown in Fig. 13; The section 39 is secured by a pivot screw 42 to the fixed section of the band guide, this pivot screw extending through the hole 43 in the movable section 27. This enables the movable section to be swung about its pivotal point to change the position of the delivery end thereof. The movable section has a forwardly projecting guide 44 and a supporting lip 45' which extends well under the presser foot so as to bring the folded edge of the strip at the will ofthe operator either into the path of the needle or at one side of. the needle, as will be hereinafter more fully explained.

This movable section of the folder is shift-- ed by means of a lever 46. The lever 46 is pivoted at 47 to a lug formed on the outer wall of the fixed section of the folder. This lever is also pivoted at 48 to the movable section 27 of the folder. Intermediate its ends, said lever is formed with a projecting arm 49 having elongated openings 50. Screws 51 pass through these elongated openings into a shifting plate 52, said shifting plate having threaded openings 53 for the screws. This enables the shifting plate to be adjustably attached to the lever 46. Said shifting plate has a downwardly projecting pin 54. The pin 54: is adapted to engage an opening 55 in a sliding plate 56.

The sliding plate 56 extends along underneath the overhanging edge of the work support 1 and is connected at one end to a spring 57 which, in turn, is connected to a screw 58 threaded into the work support. The other end of this plate 56 is connected at 59 to a lever 60. The lever 60 is ful crumed on a pin 61. A stop 62 limits the movement of the lever through the action of the spring 57, while a stop 68 limits the movement of the lever in the other direction. The lever 60 is connected to a suitable knee shift or treadle so that the same may be moved at the will of the operator and without stopping the stitching mechanism. The spring 57 normally holds the movable section so as to guide the lower edge of the band into the path of the needle 6.

When the operator moves the lever 60, this places the spring 57 under tension and the lever d6 will be moved so as to shift the movable section of the guide to withdraw the edge of the band folded thereby from the path of the needle.

My improved folder is especially adapted for placing a band on overalls or the like. In Fig. 14, T have shown diagrammatically a garment which is formed of the body fabric F to which a band B is stitched. The V-shaped incision, indicated at F, is the incision at the rear of the garment and in the waist line thereof, and it is desirable that the band shall terminate at the edges of this V-shaped incision. The line of stitching formed by the needle 7 is indicated at 8, while the line of stitching formed by the needle 6 is indicated at 5. Assuming the band is passing through the machine in the direction of the arrow in this figure, when the point 00 is reached, the lower edge of the band is withdrawn from the path of the needle 6.

In Fig. 15 I have shown the body fabric and band in normal position for engagement by both needles 6 and 7. When it is with drawn from the point x, then the lower inturned edge of the band is in the position shown in Fig. 16. The in-turned edge of the upper section of the band is indicated at Z), while the in-turned edge of the lower section is indicated at b. It will be apparent that this in-turned edge 6 will not be penetrated by the needle and will, therefore, not be stitched while the needle continues to stitch the other edge of the band through to the edge of the V-shaped section F. This finishes the garment so far as this machine is concerned. The band is allowed to project beyond the edge of the if-shaped section, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. l t, where it is cut, and then the end of theband is folded in, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1 1, and the line of stitching s is run through the end of the band for finishing the same. This is done on another machine. The same thing may be accomplished in stitching the band on the other side of the if-shaped sec tion, the guide being held back so as to with draw the edge fromthe path of the needle until a short portion of the band has been stitched.

lVhile the lever 60 may be shifted by any suitable device, I have shown in Fig. 17 of the drawings, a knee press for accomplishing this result. This knee press is in the form of a lever 64: which is adjustably attached to a sleeve 65. The sleeve 65 is connected to a pivot pin 66, which is journaled in a bracket 68. Said lever is held in adjusted position by a set-screw 67. The lever carries a knee pad 69. The lever 64 is connected by a suitable flexible connection, such as a chain 70, to the lever 60. When the knee shift is moved to the right, as viewed in Fig. 17, the lever 60 at the lower end will be moved to the left, and this shifts the position of the movable section of the folder. When the knee shift is released, then the movable section will return to its normal position through the action of the spring thereon.

While my invention is especially adapted for banding overalls and for leaving one of the edges of the band unstitched for the finishing operation, referred to above, it will be understood that it may be used for other purposes without departing from the spirit of the invention, as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is 1. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means for guiding fabric sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a sectional band guide for directing a band to the stitching mechanism, and means under the control of the operator for shifting one of the sec tions of said band guide relative to the other section for withdrawing the edge guided thereby from the path of the needle at the will of the operator.

2. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means for guiding fabric sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a band guide having means for guiding aband and turning the edges thereof, said band guide being formed in sections, and means under the control of the operator for shifting one of the sections relative to the other section whereby the folded edge guided thereby may be presentedto the needle or directed at one side of'the needle.

3'. The combination .of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means for guiding fabrie sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a band guide having means for folding a band and turning in the edges thereof, a body fabric guide for directing the edges of a body fabric between the edges of the band, said band guide having a shifta'ble section for guiding and folding one of the edges of the band, and means under the control of the operator for moving said sections so that the edge turned in and guided thereby .may be directed to the needle or at one side thereof at will.

4:. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means for guiding fabric sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a band guide having a fixed section for folding the band and for turning in one of the edges of the band, and a movable section pivoted to the fixed section for turning in the other edge of the band, a spring for normally holding said movable section for directing the edge of the band guided thereby into the path of the needle, and means controlled by the operator for moving said section against the tension of the spring for withdrawing the edge guided thereby from the path of the needle.

5. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means for guiding fabric sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a band guide having a fixed section and a movable section, means for pivotally supporting said movable section on said fixed section, a lever' pivoted tothe fixed section and the movable section for shifting said movable section, a sliding plate, means for connecting said lever to said sliding plate, a spring for moving said sliding plate in one direction,'and devices under the control of the operator for mov ing said sliding plate in the other direction. 6. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means for guiding fabric sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a band guide having a fixed section and a movable section, means for pivotally supporting said movable section on said fixed section, a lever pivoted to the fixed section and the movable section for shifting said movable section, a sliding plate, means for connecting said lever to said sliding plate, a spring for moving said sliding plate in one direction, and devices under the control of the operator for moving said sliding plate in the other direction, and stops for limiting the movement of the sliding plate under the action of the spring.

7. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including a needle, means, for guiding fabric, sections to the stitch forming mechanism, including a band guide having a fixed section and a movable section, means for pivotally supporting said movable section on said fixed section, a'lever pivoted to the fixed section and the movable section for shifting said movable section, a sliding plate, means for connecting said lever to said sliding plate, a spring for moving'said sliding plate in one direction, and devices under the control of the operator for moving said sliding plate in the other direction, and means for adjusting the connection between the sliding plate andthe lever.

In .testimony whereof, I afiix my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

S. GEORGE TATE, Jos. H. MASLAND.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. C. 

